For RennMan's info...
A couple quick photo's of the install. As mentioned before I had to fabricated the external input register that marries itself to the internal input register via a male-female tolerance relief. Insulation is undisturbed in the wall other than to have clearance for the input register. There is no humidity contamination into the wall itself, via the way I designed the input and internal wall tolerances to fit each other.
The 2x12 deck frame and 2x6 flooring was built with materials on hand and Wrightwood donated the top decking material and painted to match the house. There are 9, 6x6x3/4" thick vibration isolation pads that the cooler rests on to absorb any motor vibration and DB, harmonics that could generate into the house. As mentioned previously, the interior damper is air activated only when air flow is detected and is flush mounted to the wall with fiber seals for insulation and also rotates on Nylon bushings for quiet operation in transaction from open to close.
I designed the exterior damper / feedthrough to penetrate the wall with extra material on the outside to do two things. One I can access applying sealer material easier and with the added length it does in fact create more air flow. I modeled the design first in "Solid Works" and generated an actual working air flow characteristic available in the program that garnished additional air flow by moving the unit outside the internal wall by 9 inches from flush to the internal wall. Extra air flow for free if you will via the "tunnel effect".
Then I just sheared the aluminum sheet material and heliarced the pieces together to my drawings. The real trick is to weld the pieces together square and flat so everything fits like it should with out warpage. I left no more than .032 per side x four for close tolerance, which made cutting the hole in wall, leveling and sliding everything together a little tricky.
The plumbing for the pump is the easiest portion of the job. They do make a "kit" but I only used the copper tubing after looking at the "kit" in it's not so worldly self. I drilled and tapped an 1/8" pipe tap into the water source and installed a "real" valve that would reliably be turned on and off for winterizing or maintenance.
Picking a heating source or cooler size is determined by the square footage of the home. In fact, when I did a remodel once I wanted a larger central heating unit and the county said "nope yer gonna install what we tell you"
In this case I told the sales staff we had a 2500 sq. ft. house and they said...yep this is the one that will do the job. Well, it's only 1700 sq. ft. and I'm satisfied with it... I guess that's all that matters then.
The next phase of the project is to wire it directly to a dedicated breaker in the service panel and install a thermostat in the house. There always seems to be a weekend project.....
